A wet ride isn't a problem. A wet ride you ignore is. Here's what's actually happening inside the bike, the ten minutes that prevent most of it, and the well-meant habits that make it worse.
Water on the paint is cosmetic. The damage is in three places you can't see:
None of this is dramatic on any single ride. It's cumulative, which is exactly why it sneaks up.
Wipe and re-lube the chain. Everything else on this list is worth doing, but a dry chain is the fastest, most expensive form of wear — and it's the cheapest to prevent.
The routine above handles the surface. These are past it:
All of that is what a full overhaul covers — bearings cleaned and repacked, new cables and housing throughout, drivetrain deep-cleaned. $200, 2–3 days. If you're not sure whether you're there yet, the diagnostic is free.
Rinse the bike gently with low-pressure water, dry the frame and drivetrain with a rag, then wipe the chain and re-lube it. Ten minutes, and it prevents most of what a wet ride would otherwise cost you.
No. Pressure forces water straight past the seals into hubs, the bottom bracket and the headset — exactly the places you don't want it. A garden hose on low, or a bucket and sponge, is what you want.
No. Standard WD-40 is a water-displacing solvent: it strips lubricant rather than providing it. It's fine for driving water out of a soaked chain, but you have to follow it with actual chain lube or you've left the chain bare.
Yes. Salt in the air accelerates corrosion, and it goes after cables and housing first — that's why shifting gets sticky on coastal bikes before anything else shows. A rinse with fresh water after coastal rides is the single most useful habit.
Try not to. A wet bike in a closed garage is the worst case: humidity stays trapped against the metal for hours. Dry the frame and chain first, even roughly, and leave it somewhere with moving air.
Lift the front wheel and turn the bars slowly — grinding or notchiness means the headset. Spin a wheel off the ground and listen for roughness in the hub. Turn the cranks with the chain off and feel for grit in the bottom bracket. Any of those is a bearing service, not an adjustment.
Gritty bearings and heavy shifting don't fix themselves. The diagnostic is free and tells you where you stand.